Thursday, January 26, 2012

Quickies: Outerwear Done Right

The good people at Things Is Cool just posted up about Stone Island's coats, and I must say, they are quite nice. Stone Island is a well-known brand on the other side of the pond, but here in the US, nary a soul has a clue about the label. The company is an offshoot of the popular Italian brand C.P. Company (think Banana Republic, but much better quality). In 1982, after C.P. & Co. designed a coat that just didn't seem to fit with the rest of it's line, the decision was made to create a new brand based on that design, the so-called tela stella. Stone Island has a strong maritime and military influence in many of it's pieces, and every single one looks great. I especially like the field jacket and the duffle (about $650 and $800, respectively):

Word has it that Europeans go nuts for Stone Island when they find them in the States. But word also has it that European soccer hooligans have co-opted the brand and it's been copied a thousand times. Either way, the coats look great.

Like the look, but can't afford to spend over $500 on a really nice coat that is guaranteed to last?...
Cheap(er) Shots:
Cole Haan Duffle for $290
Spiewak Field Jacket for $280

Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Details: Buttons and Watches

Two pictures, both from BlazerBeams:

Note how neither of these gentleman have buttoned the bottom button on his vest or cardigan. This is correct. The bottom button on a waistcoat (vest), blazer, suit, etc, is not meant to be buttoned. It's been this way for over 100 years. (With outerwear such as an overcoat, use your discretion; double-breasted articles should be fully-buttoned.)

On the other hand, our technicolor friend on the right has nailed his watch choice, while our gray-scaled comrade on the left seems to have mistaken his 2:30 appointment at the dentist for diving in the tropics, piloting a jet, or perhaps dropping some mad rhymes. Your watch (if you don't own one, read this) should never interfere with the natural lay of your shirt cuffs. Doing so is not only aesthetically displeasing, but also will guarantee the unsightly fraying of said cuffs. I'm not in support of the ongoing trend of massive hip-hop mogul watches, but if you are, make sure you wear them sensibly. As Alan Flusser states, "Watches should be chosen to smarten the hand, not encumber it."

Sunday, January 22, 2012

The Fashion Spectrum

First, let me explain that style and fashion are two different things. This has been discussed endlessly on various sites on the webnets. Suffice it to say that style is timeless and something that is unique to each person who has it (though not all have it), whereas fashion is the of-the-day sartorial pursuits of designers and fashion houses. This time of year, those designers and fashion houses are starting to strut their upcoming Fall/Winter collections. And with that comes some great opportunities to illustrate the fashion spectrum, which ranges from detestable and unconscionable (let's say 1), to sinfully desirable (let's say 10). Here are three examples that illustrate the full spectrum:

1: Juun J


...10: Ovadia & Sons

This illustrative list was a bit rushed and is hardly comprehensive, but the bottom line is more you say "What the fuck?," the more you're getting into Fashion. And if you don't have that reaction to anything you see, then it's already too late. If you've already ogled Ovadia & Sons, you're doing it right.

Friday, January 20, 2012

Unacceptable: I've Just About Had It...

It's been a long time, and I've been driven from hibernation by numerous atrocities that seem to be getting praise these days. It seems if you add an unnecessary zipper or pair two unlikely materials in an even less likely garb, you're "groundbreaking." Well I say fuck that. Frankly, I am tired of bloggers nowadays (especially the people at magazine blogs like GQ and Esquire) heaping blind praise on ridiculous pieces of clothing. Two examples from a recent trade show (the gentle sirs at GQ neglect to say which, though it's likely either (capsule) or Milan Fashion Week):

On our left we have what seems to be the warm-weather version of the Robot from Lost in Space, while on the right we have a sweater with a zippable bib flap for the sloppy eater. Want a nice warm-weather coat? Grab a pea coat, a top coat, or a normal duffle. If you want a pea coat but you want a little flair, here are two great options: Golden Bear for Unionmade for $425 and Martin Margiela for God knows how much (probably $650-$900).