On Watches

I've previously posted on watches, but that was years ago; I've grown up, and learned a lot. In that post I made some suggestions based mostly on aesthetics, and that's not all there is to it when you are buying a watch you'd like to have forever. For instance, in that post I mentioned a Ted Baker watch that I had at the time. I don't have that watch anymore. Because it was a piece of crap  with a 50% plastic movement and it stopped working. Considering I paid under $100 for it, I should've known better.

If you're new to the watch world (that is, nice watches), then the task of buying your first can be daunting. There are a million options, a million more terms, and tons of places looking to take your money with a watch that looks nice, but will fall apart in a year or two. So if you're new, that's OK. Don't be frightened: I'm here to help.

• Spend at least $500

Anything less and you're probably dealing with either a fake or a low-quality watch. This isn't a hard and fast rule, but it's a good rule of thumb for someone just starting out.

• Buy from a watchmaking brand

Avoid fashion houses that also have a watch line like Diesel, Burberry, or Michael Kors. Most of them outsource and you'll end up paying for the brand name instead of for a quality timepiece. Look for brands that make their money from making watches: Hamilton, Longines, Frederique Constant, Tissot, Raymond Weil and others will serve you well.

• Aim for versatility and simplicity

Since it's your first quality watch, don't buy some massive showpiece. You're aiming for a watch you can wear almost every day with whatever you have on, so buy something with a steel band or simple brown or black leather strap (depending on the tones in your wardrobe.)

• Avoid Quartz

While there are certainly some nice watches out their with Quartz movements, it's hard to know which ones they are and as such, best to avoid them. They will keep time fine, but the quality just isn't there. Look for a watch with an automatic or mechanical movement, and if you can, make it Swiss.  

After you hit those points, it falls down to taste. I like a simple, elegant watch, like the Frederique Constant Slimline pictured above. But that may not be your jam.

If you think you're ready to finally have a nice watch that you can be proud of, head over to Jomashop. They have a huge selection of amazing timepieces in for every budget and taste.

ProTip: Fossil does not make quality timepieces. Even their newer Swiss Made line, while serviceable, is dubious.

On Bags

FashionBeans recently posted a feature on bags that you should buy, or could buy, if you wanted to tread in the higher echelons of fashion. They do a great job with offering some great looks and then giving options from struggling actor cheap to Tom Cruise crazy expensive. But they also include a few styles of bags that are best left at home--or better yet, left in your childhood.

Let's start out with the fact that no adult with a job should be wearing a backpack at any time during the workday. Backpacks are for school, hiking, and visiting foreign countries. And I suppose an exception can be made for bike commuters, though there are plenty of alternatives that would do just as good a job. No, I don't care how trendy your Herschel Hemp Collection Little America Backpack is, leave it at home or don't buy it at all. The guy above (from the Herschel website) looks like he is waiting for his bro JJ to pick him up for a gnar History of Wool in America course at the learning annex that their other mutual friend Bozzy said they just had to take. But you know Bozzy isn't even going to show up. If you buy a backpack, your friends should and will ditch you.

In addition to backpacks, you can go ahead and rule out the cross-over bags (also known as satchels) that the feature mentions. Those are one step away from a fanny pack.

And all to say about the tote is, be prepared for lost of this. Totes are for the Hamptons or other coastal adventures. Not for your day-to-day lugging of goods. Because the fact of the matter is, as an adult, your day-to-day lugging should be kept at a minimum. You should, at this point, have a good idea of the minimum you need to carry with you to do your job.

So how should you carry your things? I'm assuming you may need to bring a laptop or some documents to work, or your probably don't need a bag at all. So depending on the amount of crap you do need to bring to and from the office everyday, you could go for the folio mentioned in the article, or some soft-sided briefcase. Travelteq carries beautiful choices for both (I have the "Trash", above), but may be a bit pricey. ASOS has a decent folio for less than $60, and you can get a nice bag from Fossil for $228.  Whatever you use, make sure it's sleek and doesn't add much to your overall profile. If it's too bulky, you might as well just carry everything in your pockets for how ridiculous you'll look.

Finally for a weekend trip, all you need is a weekender (that's why they call it that). The best one I've ever seen is the Hooks and Albert Garment Weekender (pictured above). It's got a spot for everything you might want to bring, and while not cheap, will last forever. My sister-in-law got one for my brother on my recommendation and he loves it.

Summertime Shoejams

With my recent realization that Teva still makes sandals, and even collaborates with other brands, I thought it might be prudent to dispense a bit of guidance. After all summer is nigh and the urge to expose your feet will be greater than ever.

I had been under the impression that Teva had gone the way of Airwalk: defunct and now only worn ironically or as part of a costume (or both). I was wrong, which isn't to say that I should be wrong. But which is to say that there's no reason for you to wear Tevas. So I guess the thought behind Tevas, according to the write-up for the collaboration linked above, is to "keep you securely fastened across the heel, ankle, and foot." Luckily for you there literally hundreds of other options, none of which will remind you of the family vacation you took when your dad wore tube socks with Tevas. Summer calls for you to have at least few options at the ready: a nice pair of sandals, flip fops for the beach, and  loafers or mocs.

Some people might suggest that the idea of a "nice" sandal is an oxymoron. I would suggest to them that they are an oxymoron, and then run away snickering. Look for something in leather that provides coverage over your feet (but doesn't cup your toes). The pair above is a good look to aim for (though the price is steep on these). A heel strap is fine, but should be subtle and discreet, like your sexts.

For flip flops I don't think you can beat Olukai. They are immensely comfortable and not too expensive. I know everyone has their favorite flip-flops, but if you don't yet, grab a pair of Olukai and you won't be sorry. I've had mine for 5 or so years without an issue.


For loafers or mocs, the world is your oyster. You can rock a more formal loafer, a driving moc with softer more pliant leather, or even some boat shoes.

If you're outdoorsy, you may also want to grab something "amphibious," like Keen's Class 5 Tech. They'll cover you if you're on a day hike and have to ford a river or something. And like just about everything Keen makes, they'll be comfortable.

Pro-Tips: Save your flip-flops for the beach or the backyard. No one needs to see that much of your feet in any other environment. And invest in some no-show socks to help keep the stank out of your footwear in the hot summer heat.

Unacceptable: Jaden Smith

Jesus Christ.

If you've lately felt a deep burning hatred stirring within your soul, with nowhere to direct it, I've found your solution. I don't endorse hating anyone or anything, but sometimes its just too easy.

Jaden Smith has achieved "The Worst" status.

That's what he wore to prom. Which on it's own wouldn't be terrible--I can get behind getting wildly creative and going as an angelic Batman to prom. But first, he wore this same thing to Comic Con and, worse, to Kimye's wedding (why was he there?). And on top of that, there's the interview in which he (and his sister) walked all over an interviewer who apparently left the idea of follow up questions at the door. And before he apparently deleted it, his Twitter account was a goldmine, including:

"Every 7 Years Your Body Is Completely Replaced With Entirely New Cells So Just Because You Look The Same Doesn't Mean You Are."

and

"How Can Mirrors Be Real If Our Eyes Aren’t Real"

What's the point of all my ranting? Wear a tux to prom. And if you wear a Batman outfit, you shouldn't be able to say "Oh, I think I'm gonna wear my Batman costume," as if it's a regular thing.

Stolen Features

Sometimes (all the time), a website or a magazine or a billboard will show a great look, or a set of looks, or part of a look. And then you check the price tag and you wonder how anyone who actually subscribes to those magazines or looks at those websites could possibly afford that look. The fact is that the people who can afford most of the clothes in the magazines and in features, they don't look at prices. They have the freedom to just buy. With that in mind, this post (and similar ones to follow) will take those same looks, and show you how to get them on the (relatively) cheap. Enjoy.

Mr. Porter posted an excellent feature on what they called foolproof dinner looks. Of course, all the looks are spot on, but they also come in at no less than $1,380.00. That's for the fourth look. That's right, the one with the rolled up faded jeans and Nikes. While that may be budget shopping for Kanye, you probably aren't looking to spend $575 on a sweater, especially not one with blue suede patches.

Look One
ProTip: Go ahead and splurge on the watch. A nice watch can last a lifetime. Look for something over $300 with an automatic mechanical. You should own watches with brown, black, and metal bands. The first you get is up to you, based on your wardrobe on how you'll be wearing it. 

J. Crew Ludlow Suit $425
Banana Republic Polo $50
Allen Edmonds Oxfords $385
Hamilton Intra-Matic Watch $845
or
Bulova Classic Watch $150

Their Price: $4,020
Your Price: $1,010-$1,705

Look Two
Club Monaco Knitted Blazer $200
L.L. Bean Signature Chambray Shirt $50
Bonobos Chino $88
J. Crew Striped Shirt $45 (same as theirs)
Sebago Sloop Loafer $120

Their Price (not including shoes): $1,695
Your Price (including shoes): $503

Look Three
ASOS Tweed Blazer $135
Ledbury Dress Shirt $125
Bonobos Trouser $128
The Tie Bar Tie $19

Their Price: $2,200
Your Price: $407

Look Four
Our Legacy Jacket $230 (also from Mr. Porter)
J. Crew Sweater $50
Levi's 511 Slim Fit Jeans $47
Nike Air Max 1 $110 (same as theirs)

Their Price: $1,380
Your Price: $437

Look Five
Suitsupply Suit $639
Banana Republic Shirt $80
The Tie Bar Tie $19
Allen Edmonds Oxfords $385

Their Price: $3,825
Your Price: $1,123

Useless: A True Waste of a Cow

A nice leather product is something to be cherished and taken care of. And when you find one, it's okay to spend a ton of money on it, because it could very well last a lifetime. But there are other times when you see something that was clearly made on a bet, or at least was born of the need to use up scraps. Such is the case with the Hard Graft's Keyfold and the TravelTeq Pencil Holder.

TravelTeq has truly disappointed. This is an Italian leather maker who makes truly gorgeous pieces of luggage. This pencil holder seems to create more of a hassle than it does a convenient carrying case for your fine colored pencils, and at 65 eurobucks, its hardly a "justifiable" purchase. Acquire says this is for "the well-appointed creative;" I say it's for the hipster/sucker. Just keep it classic.

And a keyfold? Really? While I can't say anything that Hard Graft makes appeals to me, the rest of their wares are at least useful. At Acquire (again), they say this "keeps your keys organized in one place." Thank God. I don't think that anything had been invented to do that.

Quickies: The Most Hipster Thing Ever Made and A Few Other Things

Thing the First
I present to you the most hipster thing ever made:

We can't see the entire bike, but it's no doubt a fixie. And really? You need to bring a single beer with you on your bike ride? Well, at least it's a PBR so you can keep your hipster cred. If you want to become a hipster or you live in Portland, you can get this thing here for $64.00. It's handmade, so that's legit...

Also. PBR is not good beer. Ever.

Second Thing

Daniel Radcliffe goes DB:

Daniel Radcliffe is a fairly well dressed man about town. And this isn't exactly bad, but it's just not his best work. Consider that Harry is only a hair over 5'5", which is not exactly tall; one might even call him a bit short. As such, he should be considering his stature when he's dressing (or rather, his stylist should). And in this case, the four button (instead of the traditional six), makes him seem even shorter. To add to this miniaturizing effect, the jacket is cut about an inch shorter than it should be. With that said, it fits him perfectly otherwise. (via Esquire)

Third

Scott Morrison has started two denim companies in the past (Paper Denim & Cloth and Earnest Sewn), both of which have been wildly successful. So here is a man who knows denim. So for his third venture, he upped the ante (or at least his overhead), and decided to start 3x1 (a reference to denim's standard weaving construction and to the fact that it is Morrison's third venture.

They provide three levels of service: ready-to-wear, custom, and bespoke. The ready-wear-jeans are pre-made and ready to go; you get to pick the buttons and rivets and they hem them onsite, so within 20 minutes you've got a new pair of amazing jeans. For custom, you choose the rise and leg fit their cuts, then choose the stitching and back pocket design. Bespoke is from scratch, a jean made just for you, to measure. It also starts off at $1200. Pretty ridiculous. Ready-to-wear jeans range from $295-$395. Also ridiculous. But also some of the best jeans that you'll ever own. 

Quickies: Outerwear Done Right

The good people at Things Is Cool just posted up about Stone Island's coats, and I must say, they are quite nice. Stone Island is a well-known brand on the other side of the pond, but here in the US, nary a soul has a clue about the label. The company is an offshoot of the popular Italian brand C.P. Company (think Banana Republic, but much better quality). In 1982, after C.P. & Co. designed a coat that just didn't seem to fit with the rest of it's line, the decision was made to create a new brand based on that design, the so-called tela stella. Stone Island has a strong maritime and military influence in many of it's pieces, and every single one looks great. I especially like the field jacket and the duffle (about $650 and $800, respectively):

Word has it that Europeans go nuts for Stone Island when they find them in the States. But word also has it that European soccer hooligans have co-opted the brand and it's been copied a thousand times. Either way, the coats look great.

Like the look, but can't afford to spend over $500 on a really nice coat that is guaranteed to last?...
Cheap(er) Shots:
Cole Haan Duffle for $290
Spiewak Field Jacket for $280

Details: Buttons and Watches

Two pictures, both from BlazerBeams:

Note how neither of these gentleman have buttoned the bottom button on his vest or cardigan. This is correct. The bottom button on a waistcoat (vest), blazer, suit, etc, is not meant to be buttoned. It's been this way for over 100 years. (With outerwear such as an overcoat, use your discretion; double-breasted articles should be fully-buttoned.)

On the other hand, our technicolor friend on the right has nailed his watch choice, while our gray-scaled comrade on the left seems to have mistaken his 2:30 appointment at the dentist for diving in the tropics, piloting a jet, or perhaps dropping some mad rhymes. Your watch (if you don't own one, read this) should never interfere with the natural lay of your shirt cuffs. Doing so is not only aesthetically displeasing, but also will guarantee the unsightly fraying of said cuffs. I'm not in support of the ongoing trend of massive hip-hop mogul watches, but if you are, make sure you wear them sensibly. As Alan Flusser states, "Watches should be chosen to smarten the hand, not encumber it."

The Fashion Spectrum

First, let me explain that style and fashion are two different things. This has been discussed endlessly on various sites on the webnets. Suffice it to say that style is timeless and something that is unique to each person who has it (though not all have it), whereas fashion is the of-the-day sartorial pursuits of designers and fashion houses. This time of year, those designers and fashion houses are starting to strut their upcoming Fall/Winter collections. And with that comes some great opportunities to illustrate the fashion spectrum, which ranges from detestable and unconscionable (let's say 1), to sinfully desirable (let's say 10). Here are three examples that illustrate the full spectrum:

1: Juun J

...5: KRISVANASSCHE

...10: Ovadia & Sons

This illustrative list was a bit rushed and is hardly comprehensive, but the bottom line is more you say "What the fuck?," the more you're getting into Fashion. And if you don't have that reaction to anything you see, then it's already too late. If you've already ogled Ovadia & Sons, you're doing it right.

Unacceptable: I've Just About Had It...

It's been a long time, and I've been driven from hibernation by numerous atrocities that seem to be getting praise these days. It seems if you add an unnecessary zipper or pair two unlikely materials in an even less likely garb, you're "groundbreaking." Well I say fuck that. Frankly, I am tired of bloggers nowadays (especially the people at magazine blogs like GQ and Esquire) heaping blind praise on ridiculous pieces of clothing. Two examples from a recent trade show (the gentle sirs at GQ neglect to say which, though it's likely either (capsule) or Milan Fashion Week):

On our left we have what seems to be the warm-weather version of the Robot from Lost in Space, while on the right we have a sweater with a zippable bib flap for the sloppy eater. Want a nice warm-weather coat? Grab a pea coat, a top coat, or a normal duffle. If you want a pea coat but you want a little flair, here are two great options: Golden Bear for Unionmade for $425 and Martin Margiela for God knows how much (probably $650-$900).

For Your Hell's Angels Friends

I'm just kidding. I don't think there are Hell's Angels that are slim enough to fit into this. There's a weight minimum for that club, right? Maybe they're trimming up. But if you want to do a leather jacket, it's best to do it right. The message that a nice leather jacket sends is "I'm not only confident enough to wear a leather jacket, but I'm also badass. There's also a 50/50 shot I own a motorcycle." And the new Real McCoy Buco J-22 Horsehide Leather Jacket sends that exact message.

It's got zippers, and pockets, and more zippers. And layers of leather you don't know what to do with. And I think that one pocket on the bottom right is made for cigarettes. And we all know that cigarettes are badass. Also, it's made of horses. It's like wearing Secretariat--also badass. This leather body armor will cost you about $2700, over at Blue in Green. The original Bucos are bygones, but you can find pretty spot-on replicas that are of great quality, and they're half the price of this one. (via Selectism)

Cheap Shots:
Schott NYC for Barneys New York for $995
Shades of Grey for $182

Shoegasm!

I've lost count of the number of shoes I have: that I keep separate and clean, I know it's something like 12-14. I know this is a paltry sum for most women, and not very impressive among the more stylish men. I also have a closet floor full of shoes I don't take care of. Probably an equal amount. So a safe guess would be between 24 and 28. Who knows? The bottom line is you only need a few pairs of shoes: black leather, brown leather, and sneakers. That being said, the well-dressed man inside of you should already own or endeavor to own many other pairs (sandals, loafers, monk straps, et al.). Here are a few suggestions to get that collection growing.

Superga is an Italian brand started in 1913 (named after a hill east of Turin). The above shoes are a new color of the classic 2750, originally made in 1925. Baller. 40 British Dollars. Use these to add some (likely) needed color to the bottom of your wardrobe this summer. (via Selectism)

Typically, the less seams you see on a shoe, the more skill it took to make. These "sueded" Sergio Rossi will run you about $600 over at The Corner, so they are obviously not worth it. However, I wanted to make a point that a neat-looking shoe (less seams) often means a high quality shoe. But not always. And that by no means implies that a presence of seams means a lack of quality (think brogues). (via Selectism)

Nike Air Vortex Vintage. These are hyper 80s kicks. These are the shoes in which your older brother was cooler than you. You should have at least two pairs of very casual sneakers in your arsenal. They should not be the same color and one should be grey or another easily-pairable color. These are available around the web for between $75 and about $105. (via Hypebeast)

Also check out these gorgeous monk straps, coming soon from Thom Browne and Leffot. Perfect.

Ménage à Trois

Here's three quick ones for you.

If you use this in Italy, you're just smart. If you use this in the US, you're an obnoxious hipster. And you're probably also an alcoholic. $25.00. Guess where it's available? Etsy. (via LikeCool)

California-based Wolfard Glassblowing missed the mark by about 130 years with their new oil lamp. If you're really stupid and are a fan of archaic luminescence, then you can buy it here for just under $360. (via Hypebeast).

Finally, something good. General Knot & Co.. Handmade in the USA out of high-quality fabrics (most of them older than you, some older than your parents). Limited run florals, chambray, solids, novelty prints. All classic, all stylish. Perfect summer ties. Starting at $70, direct from the website. Get them now, cherish them forever. (via Hypebeast)

For That "Special" Someone

I think I've ranted about how there are times when the sites I look at seem to just post things without considering them. They post things that they get a lead on as if they are the greatest innovation in style since the button. CoolHunting, a normally amazing aggregator of awesome, has recently committed this egregious error. It's a rare miss, so I'm going to allow it, but I wanted to share it with all (seven) of you.

This headwear abomination is referred to as the Cap-Sac Kids (yes, there's an adult version). It is, as far as I can tell, for the same kids who need a tardguard (that's the railing that some kids need when they sleep on the top bunk). Imagine your mom annihilating your social life so early on that there's literally no chance that you can recover. That's what this does. They come in bright colors so they're sure not to be missed by bullies and kidnappers. The best part: at $13 per cap, it's one of the cheapest, easiest ways to sabotage your kids' friendships and ensure that they stay at the bottom of the social ladder. (via CoolHunting)

What Worked: Summer Simple

Today's edition of what worked plays nice with little to no accessorizing and simple style. The first one is a simple pairing, no fuss. This outfit is elegant without being flashy, classy without being pretentious. Remember: Summer is about relaxing and taking a breather. And that goes for clothes, too. Shed the layers and keep it simple this summer.

Shirt: Burberry for $110

Pants: Shipley & Halmos for $195

Shoes: To Boot New York for $288

This outfit: No need for a belt, let the polo drop over the waist of your pants (and not any farther!). And don't wear your mocs with socks (but if you have to, check these out).

On mocs: Get a pair. They're comfortable, versatile, and look great all the time. To Boot New York makes an amazing pair (shown above) that has extremely soft, pliable leather so you get a casual feel that will last.

Cheap Shots (for those who don't want to drop $500+ on an outfit):
Shirt: Banana Republic for $40
Pants: Brooks Brothers for $70
Shoes: Ashton Grey for $90

For Your Prostitute Friend

Recently, most of my hooker pals have been lamenting the lack of innovation in high heel footwear. I can't blame them. Anybody who has been out at 3AM trolling for a good time in any major city has surely noticed the sea of sameness that has pervaded the feet of our country's streetwalkers. I've long been a proponent of taking inspiration from unconventional places. And now, so too have shoe designers.

The wonderful people at St. Augustine have just released these concept shoes with LED underlightings. I'm assuming the inspiration for these LED Stilettos was taken from the LED runners that brighten up the night at street racing events in your local hamlet. Now, as those cars illegally rip through your city, the ladies of the night can share in the delight of undercarriage luminescence. No word on pricing, but they will be widely available (like your prostitute friend) in 2012. Hot damn! (via LikeCool)

How to Be A Supervillain

There are a few key aspects of being a supervillain: mindset, appearance, and action. As far as mindset and action goes, I can't help you much. Either you're an insane narcissist or you're not. It's one of those things you're born and/or neglected as a child into. Where I can help you out is appearance. You can be an insane, power-hungry villain and have a brilliant plot for world domination, but if you don't have the look, you don't have a thing. One thing every supervillain has is an evil-looking mode of transportation (remember the stealth boat from Tomorrow Never Dies?). Years ago (high school times) a friend of mine told me about Wally boats. Specifically, we were ogling the WallyPower 118.

The boat itself is intimidating. Nevermind whatever evil genius owns it. This is the kind of boat Satan cruises in. This is the top of extravagance. This is the type of boat where you sit on the back talking to the owner, say the wrong thing, and then he shoots you and tosses you overboard like you're nothing. Because you are. Or maybe the Coast Guard is hot on your tail because you just set off some hi-tech biowarfare. No problem: this boat will zip you away at 60 knots (for a boat this size, that's like light speed). Wally has you covered. Check out the deets on the Wally website above. (via BornRich)

Cheap Shots:
1964 Crownline Thompson G1400 for $1,200 (get it while it's hot!)

9 Millies for Your Honey

You ever have the urge to get your girlfriend an item similar to one you own so you guys can hit the town in matching style? You haven't? Good. That's not ok. If you've ever seen a couple wearing the same damn outfit, you understand. If you've ever actually worn your partner's clothing (and same-sex couples are exempt)...I don't really have any words for you, but I would like you to leave my site. Anyway, a while back I posted these epic earphones. And now some hipster on Etsy has put these in their virtual storefront:

How great are they? Those kids over at Etsy have it all! I've got a friend who rags on Etsy on the regular, but I have to admit, hipster or not, they are creative. The "artist" (who likes Fall, lives with a cat, and uses words like "up-cycled") makes all kinds of crap out of bullets. Unfortunately for your violent hipster girlfriend, these earrings have been sold. But I bet if you asked real nice, he'd make another set for you. Or you can buy the shotgun shell cufflinks. Act quickly so you and your gal can strut in matching style (I'm assuming you've already purchased those earphones, right?). Maybe you can make up a story about how the metal for the bullets from your earphones and the metal for bullets from her earrings came from the same refinery and have a magical bond! (via Getting Beat Like You Stole Something)

Another Useless Product

It's been a while since I've posted one of these, so I'll throw out this disclaimer: Useless in this case mean unnecessary, superfluous, or with limited application/use. And in some rare cases, actually useless.

Today's culprit comes to us from the indispensable work wear maker, Carhartt (when I say work wear, I mean manual labor, not corner office). And in the vein of work wear, many of their finest offerings continue. But now they're verging on useless.

Presenting the Carhartt Flame-Resistant Chambray shirt. Perhaps I'm remiss in dubbing this item useless. Any number of careless professionals could find great utility in flame-resistant clothing: welders, fire breathers, chefs, dragons. Bonus: if you size up, it doubles as PJs for absent-minded smokers. It looks like Carhartt jumped on the chambray bandwagon and tried to put their own work wear spin on it. (via Selectism)

Quick tip: If your clothing catches on fire more often than never, you've got three options: stop playing with matches, suit up, or call 911. Fires are no laughing matter, unless there's a clown involved.